Automatic or Quartz? Which is Better?
The style of your watch — be it the case, the dial, or the bracelet — may say a lot about you. But did you know the most telling design features are what lie underneath? Despite being well-known and sought after for their unparalleled prestige and sense of sophistication, mechanical watches may not always amount to a justified first-time investment. With innumerable other watch-speaks available on the market for increasingly affordable rates, it may be time to set aside the vaunted luxury and sophistication of mechanical watches, in consideration of optimal efficiency and accuracy.
First, let’s get the basics of mechanicals out of the way. These mainspring-driven devices that are revered for being wound manually or via a self-winding mechanism, have long been proven to not be nearly as good as their electronic counterparts. Transmitting force through a series of gears that power the balance wheel as it oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, mechanical watches such as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive ‘Snowflake’ SBGA211, are known for utilising escapement devices to regulate movement and maintain consistency. In the most simplified sense, mechanical watches were designed to run solely on kinetic energy and are further prompted by the wearer’s motion.
On the other hand, electronically operated timepieces, such as the Grand Seiko SBGV238, utilize a quartz movement that depends on the installation of a battery for energy. This type of movement is more accurate than their mechanical counterparts, and also cheaper and quicker to mass produce. Regarded a technological breakthrough that almost eliminated the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s and 1980s, the easiest ‘tell’ of a quartz timepiece is its once-every-second ticking action, which differs from a mechanical piece’s smoother sweeping strokes around the dial.
Most collectors agree, however, that one doesn’t buy a Ferrari for the commute. As such, mechanical watches transcend the need for practicality. Take one of the world’s oldest watch manufacturers in continuous operation since it was founded, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnolle Tourbillon 89000/000R- B645 for example — made almost entirely by hand from the bezel to the dial, and the tourbillon, this model is just one example of innumerable timepieces which possess a longstanding in-house heritage movement.
In watchmaking, heritage movements are defined by years of research by horologists that produce mechanisms that are tested and proven to withstand the passage of time and modern innovation.
However, not everyone has the means or desire to possess watches solely based on their historical significance. Practicality and convenience are important aspects of most middle-class consumerism. Quartz-based movements are up to 100 times more accurate than their mechanical versions.
What’s more, electronic watches facilitate more room for additional features such as a calendar and have minimal moving parts which impede the wear-and-tear of gears, whereas mechanical timepieces tend to be more movement-focused with a limited power reserve and overly complicated chain of events required to prevent the mainspring from splurging its power in one go.
Going beyond the convenience versus purist arguments, there are significant other factors aside from accuracy, price, and aesthetics that determine the ultimate value of a timepiece.
More often than not, mechanical watches are deemed more valuable for their longstanding heritage and history, which further supplement the intricacy of their distinct mechanics, though these factors do not determine the ultimate quality of a watch. One could make points on the benefits and appeal of both mechanics; however, the movement an individual ultimately gravitates to will eventually boil down to personal preference.
